Proper Spraying Techniques
Proper Spraying Techniques
We often prescribe solutions to people’s pest and disease problem, hand them a bottle of stuff, and send them on their merry way. I think, like in other professions, we assume that since we know what to do, the customer will also. So I have put together a quick “how-to” on proper spraying that will hopefully be helpful if this is a new concept for you. No information in this article is intended to supersede the manufacturer’s recommendation and you should ALWAYS read labels thoroughly (legal disclaimer complete!)
First, there are different types of sprayers available and each serves a different purpose.
Handheld Sprayer- This is an inexpensive plastic bottle that you’ve seen a thousand times. Many of our Ready-to-Use (RTU) products come in these spray bottles. Upside: price. They retail for under $3 and are easy to use. They should last a while if not abused. Downside: you can really tire out our forearm if trying to do a lot of spraying, difficult to use in any position other than upright, most remedies give measurements in gallons, so you have to figure out how much to use for a quart (or whatever size your spray bottle is).
Pressure Sprayer- This is usually also plastic, although you may still find a steel one. These sprayers have a tank that holds the solution, and wand used to do the spraying, and a pump handle that allows you to build up air pressure in the tank. A few pumps of the handle translates to a few minutes of spraying from the wand in a continuous stream. There are versions that are a back pack you can wear and versions that have a small, battery powered pump that requires no “pumping” on your part. Upsides: Easy to use, no wear on the forearm (unlike handheld sprayer), allows for multiple spray angles, allows for larger quantities of solution. Downside: cost. Good pressure sprayers can run $25 or more, cheap ones are just that, cheap.
Hose End Sprayer- As the name implies, this sprayer attaches to your hose and mixes your treatment with the hose water to be delivered. Some hose end sprayers have a set mix ratio, meaning water and solution are mixed at a set rate, this can be a bit confusing when trying to figure out how much to mix. Other hose ends have an adjustable ratio, so you can set and spray. There is also a hose end designed to shoot solution very far, often used to spray high into trees. Upside: Easy to deliver lots of solution at a time, some models pretty inexpensive. Downside: Too easy to deliver LOTS of product at a time. ***Side bar- Hose ends sprayers are great to use for foliar fertilizing of plants or lawn. They are also recommended for applying product like Spinosad for mosquito control or BT into Pecan trees. They are NOT for spraying most insecticide or disease treatments on plants, as they deliver way too much product and could have environmental effects. More is not always better.*** Other down sides: Mixing ratios can be confusing, some brands (ie. Miracle Grow) do not tell you the mixing ratio, so it is impossible to know how they mix and should not be used with any other products.
Trombone Sprayer- A vanishing breed, the trombone sprayer uses a long tube that is slid, like the slide of a trombone, to pull solution from a bucket. They are great for spraying longer distances and are multi-faceted, but they are becoming very hard to find. Think of the Super Soakers kids use at the pool.
So, now we know what the different types of sprayers are, let’s go over a few other important notes. First and foremost, read the instructions on the product before using. Manufacturers spend a lot of money and time researching products before they are release to the market. We, as retailers, are not allowed to recommend products for any use other than what is listed on the label, unless we have first hand experience with the product. So read and follow directions. Please. Next, be sure not to mix uses of sprayers, particularly herbicides and other products, as they can lead to damage on plants. Always mark your sprayer very clearly as to their intended use. Second, always clean your sprayer thoroughly after each use. If there is unused solution, do not try to store it. Add as much extra water as possible, using a secondary bucket if necessary. Dilute to at least 10 parts new water to 1 part solution. Dispose of in a safe place (not down drains), such as a corner of the yard or hole. Cover, if possible, with dirt or compost. Also, if you are not sure how much solution you will need, mix a small batch. It is safer and easier to mix another small batch than it is to dispose of unused solution. Next, rinse the sprayer with clean water 2-3 times and on the final rinse, be sure and run LOTS of clean water through the sprayer to clean out the wand. Use caution when releasing pressure from a pressure sprayer before cleaning. Sometimes, solution will spray up when you start to unscrew the handle. Look away when unscrewing and try not to add excess pressure when nearing the end of a job (more on that in a sec). Finally, store the sprayer in a location where sunlight and high heat will not denigrate seals and plastic parts. Out of reach of kids and pets is always good too.
Now you know what sprayer to use and some important safety notes, let’s get down to business. RTU products come pre-mixed and can be sprayed with little prep. It is important to shake the bottle before starting, as some separation may occur. Check the nozzle to be sure it is in the “On” or “Spray” position. If you are starting with a concentrate, add a little water to your sprayer tank first, then add the proper amount of concentrate, determined by how much finished spray you wish to make. Remember, follow manufacturer’s directions. More is not better. I also like to keep a set of cheap, plastic measuring spoons just for measuring concentrates. These are also rinse well after each use. Now, fill the sprayer tank to the desired level. Place handle on tank and tighten until snug. Many sprayers use o-rings to seal, so too tight can lead to leaks. Just a good snug feel. Now, be sure to agitate the solution to achieve a complete mixture. This can be done by shaking the tank or with a clean stick before you close the tank.
Now some specifics, based on sprayer type. For handhelds, be sure you agitate the solution ever few minutes as you go. Some solutions, especially ones using oils, can separate quickly. If using a pressure sprayer, pump the handle a few times to add pressure. You will see it gets harder to pump as the pressure builds up. It is possible to blow up a pressure sprayer, so don’t go overboard. As the solution level goes down, you will need to add more pressure to the tank. You will notice the drop in pressure as you go. I like to agitate every time I add pressure, just to be safe. As noted above, try not to add too much pressure as you get near the end of the solution. If the tank is highly pressurized, it can be difficult and unsafe to remove the handle. For hose ends, be sure your hose is ready to go and free of kinks before starting. You don’t want to have to wrestle your hose while trying to spray. Depending on what you are spraying and your comfort level, you may want to put on all or some of the following: Protective goggles, gloves, mask, long sleeve shirt, a hat. Take note of the wind speed and direction so you don’t get caught in the “crossfire” of your spray. If it is very windy, postpone spraying until the wind diminishes. Also, try to avoid spraying mid-day, when sun is high, especially in warm weather.
Let the spraying begin!!! Now that everything is prepped, you can begin to apply your solution to your plant. If you have never used the particular product on the particular plant, you may want to do a test spray before going all out. It is not common for plants to burn, but it does happen occasionally. ***Sidebar #2- Plants in the mint family, which includes all the Salvias, do not like to have oils sprayed on them. Neem oil or Orange oil can really burn plants in this family, so use a different product for them. Oils are also more prone to burn if sprayed in sun or high heat.*** Begin your spraying at the bottom of the plant and work your way up. Take care to cover all surfaces of the plant, leaves (top and bottom), stems, and trunk. Good coverage is what you are going for. This is why we really prefer the pressure sprayer over the hand held. The long wand and consistent stream of the pressure sprayer makes reaching in and around the plant much easier.
Once you have finished, clean and store your sprayer as noted above. I keep a journal of nearly everything I do in the garden, but it is really a good idea to make note of applications. We are HUGE advocates of organics here at Great Outdoors, but we will also be the first to admit that repeat applications may be necessary for tough problems. All materials that you spray, with the exception of fertilizers, should have a reapplication interval listed on the instructions (usually 4-5 days or up to a week). Two applications are usually good, but a third may be necessary for heavy infestations of insects or stubborn disease issues.
Hopefully, this article gives you a better idea of what we mean when we talk about spraying a plant. As always, if you have any questions, feel free to give us a call or shoot us an e-mail from our “Contact Us” page. Good luck and good gardening.









